Mount Elbrus south route, 10 days

Client to Guide Ratio

You will be accompanied by an experienced instructor-guide throughout the program. On summit day, additional guides will be provided at a ratio of one guide for every three participants (1:3).

Included

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Mineralnye Vody. Transfer to Cheget. Meet your guide

Please arrive in Mineralnye Vody by 14:00. For early or late arrivals, we can arrange an individual transfer at a cost of approximately $80 for up to 3 people. A group transfer will take us to Cheget Glade, situated 2000 meters above sea level at the foot of Elbrus. The journey covers 185 km and takes approximately 3 hours by car. Upon arrival we will check into the hotel where we will spend the night. In the evening there will be a welcome dinner and itinerary briefing.

Day 2: Walk  to the Terskol Waterfall (2100 m - 2800 m - 2100 m)

The first acclimatisation walk is along the Terskol Gorge to the most impressive waterfall in the North Caucasus and Russia, located at an altitude of 2800m. From the Terskol Gorge there are stunning views of the Donguz-Orun mountain range, glaciers and the peaks of Kogutai as the trail winds along the picturesque mountain river. The route to the waterfall is a pleasant one - a gradual climb allows you to enjoy breathtaking views with minimal effort, culminating in the sight of a roaring stream of pure glacial water. Return to Cheget.

Day 3: Acclimatization ascent to Cheget-2 Station (2100 m - 2750 m - 2100 m)

Today we start our acclimatization trek to Cheget-2 station at 2750 meters. The program includes training in trekking techniques and high altitude breathing. In the evening, the guide will give a theoretical session on the basics of mountaineering and mountain safety. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 4: Climb to Peak Terskol  (2100 m- 3150 m - 2100 m)

The second acclimatization trek takes us to the stunning Devichiye Kosy (or Virgin's Braids) waterfall at 2800 m. Then we climb to the Russian Academy of Sciences High Mountain Observatory at 3150 m. The Terskol Peak Observatory has been in operation since 1980 and is used for observations of the Earth's outer space and research to ensure the planet's safety from asteroids, comets and space debris. Finally we will return to the hotel in Cheget. There will be a briefing, gear selection and equipment check for the next stage of acclimatization.

Day 5: Move to Cheeper-Azau (3000 m). Acclimatisation hike to 3850 m.

In the morning, we will pack the necessary equipment for the trek. Any unnecessary items can be left in the hotel's luggage room.The day begins with a transfer to the Cheeper-Azau Mountain Hotel. After a 3 km drive to the Azau Glade, we will take the cable car to the Stary Krugozor station, where we will check into our reserved rooms and have lunch at the hotel. After lunch, we will go on an acclimatization hike past the Sarykaya-Su waterfall to the Mir cable car station at 3450 meters or to a scenic glacial lake. Depending on the weather and participants' conditions, the group may continue to the highest station of the Gara-Bashi cable car at 3847 meters. Then we descend to the station Stary Krugozor and spend the night in the mountain hotel Cheeper-Azau.

Spending the night at this altitude is an important part of the program as it ensures temporary acclimatization. Most climbing programs on Mt. Elbrus involve a direct ascent from hotels in Cheget, Terskol, and Azau at 2100-2300 meters to high altitude hotels at 3800-3900 meters. However, such a rapid transition can lead to headaches, insomnia, and serious physical problems. Unlike the usual practice of rapid altitude changes, our program ensures smooth and gradual acclimatization, which helps minimize negative health effects.

Day 6: Climb to the Pastukhova Rocks (4800 m). Snow and ice activities.

The day starts with a cable car ride to Gara-Bashi (3847 m). Near the station there are two hotels where we will spend the next day: the Heart of Elbrus Hotel (3820 m) and the Leaprus Eco-Hotel (3910 m). After checking our climbing equipment, we will make an acclimatization hike to the Pastukhova Rocks. The height of the climb will depend on the weather conditions and the fitness level of the group. The Pastukhova Rocks are situated at an elevation of 4600–4800 meters. In addition to a review of safe mountaineering practices, you will receive hands-on instruction on the slopes in the use of crampons, rope work, and self-belaying on snow and ice slopes with an ice axe At the end of the day, we descend to the Cheeper-Azau Hotel for dinner and an overnight stay.

Day 7: Rest day. Snow and ice training (3820m)

A day of rest is an important part of our preparation for a successful summit.  Today we have the opportunity to get some much needed rest. After a late breakfast, we will gather our equipment and head to either the Heart of Elbrus Hotel (3820 m) or the Leaprus Eco-Hotel (3910 m). There will be no trekking today. Instead, we will focus on snow and ice training (weather permitting), including knot-tying exercises. The day will also include lunch, board games, dinner, and a discussion of tomorrow's plans, with an emphasis on an early departure. Overnight in high camp.

Day 8. Summit day on Elbrus (3820 m - 5642 m - 3820 m)

Summit day is the most important and challenging part of the expedition. We start early with a light breakfast before putting on our harnesses and heading out on the route. Participants who wish to save time and effort can choose to ascend by snowcat to the Pastukhova Rocks (4800 m) or to the beginning of the Kosaya Shelf (5100 m). This decision should be made the day before the ascent. If a snowcat is booked, the departure time is around 4:00 am.

The trekking group, consisting of at least 3 people with one or more "assistant guides", will start 3-4 hours earlier than the main group. Please note that if a participant is unable to continue due to illness or other reasons, the remaining 1-2 participants and the guide will descend as a smaller group. If less than 3 people wish to ascend without a snowcat, a personal guide must be hired at an additional cost. In the event of a forced descent from lower altitudes (up to 4500m), a second attempt at the ascent on the same day is possible if the descent is made to the mountain hotel before the main group leaves. The group can then rejoin the main guide for the ascent.

After crossing the Kosaya shelf and reaching the Elbrus saddle at 5300m, you can rest, have a snack and warm up with hot tea. The ascent to the West Summit of Elbrus (5642 m) usually takes from 10:00 to 13:00, depending on the pace of the group. From 14:00 all group members start the descent, which takes 5-6 hours.Dinner and overnight at high camp.

Day 9: Reserve day. Descent to the Cheget (3820 m - 3000 m)

The reserve day will be used to choose the most favorable weather conditions for the Elbrus ascent If the ascent goes as planned, we will descend to  the Cheget Glade  in Terskol, where we can rest and celebrate our successful climb. You will have the opportunity to enjoy a variety of Caucasian cuisine, including khychin, zhar-baur, and shashlyk. For an additional fee, you can go fishing, take a sauna, go horseback riding, or explore interesting places in Kabardino-Balkaria, such as the famous Chegem Waterfalls, the stunning Lake Gizhgit, or the Geduko Thermal Complex, where you can relax in hot mineral baths. At the end of the day there will be a festive dinner and the presentation of climbing certificates. In the event of bad weather, this day will serve as a backup to wait for better conditions.

Day 10. Transfer to Mineralnye Vody Airport

In the morning a transfer will bring you to the airport of Mineralnye Vody by 10:00 am. Due to possible delays on day 7, we recommend that you buy a return ticket for the afternoon.If your return flight is earlier or much later and you do not want to wait at the airport, you can book a private transfer to the airport for $80.