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Mt. Elbrus climb

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Carstensz Pyramid - Puncak Jaya 4884m


Carstensz Pyramid / Puncak Jaya 4884m

The highlands surrounding the peak were inhabited before contact with the Europeans, and the peak was known as Nemangkawi in Amungkal language. Puncak Jaya was named "Carstensz Pyramid" after Dutch explorer Jan Carstenszoon who first sighted the glaciers on the peak of the mountain on a rare clear day in 1623. The sighting went unverified for over two centuries, and Carstensz was ridiculed in Europe when he said he had seen snow near the equator.

In 1936 the Dutch Carstensz Expedition, unable to establish definitively which of the three summits was the highest, attempted to climb each one of them. Anton Colijn, Jean Jacques Dozy and Frits Wissel reached both the glacier covered East Carstensz and Ngga Pulu summits on December 5, but due to bad weather their attempt to climb the bare Carstensz Pyramid was not successful. Because of extensive snow melt, Ngga Pulu has become a 4,862 m (15,951 ft) subsidiary peak, but it has been estimated that in 1936 (when glaciers still covered 13 km2 (5.0 sq mi) of the mountain) Ngga Pulu was indeed the highest summit, reaching over 4,900 m (16,100 ft).

The now-highest Carstensz Pyramid summit was not climbed until 1962, by an expedition led by the Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer (famous for Seven Years in Tibet, and climber of the Eiger North Face) with three other expedition members – the New Zealand mountaineer Philip Temple, the Australian rock climber Russell Kippax, and the Dutch patrol officer Albertus (Bert) Huizenga. Temple had previously led an expedition into the area and pioneered the access route to the mountains.

When Indonesia took control of the province in 1963, the peak was renamed 'Poentja Soekarno' (Simplified Indonesian: Puncak Sukarno) or Sukarno Peak, after the first President of Indonesia; later this was changed to Puncak Jaya. Puncak means peak or mountain and Jaya means 'victory', 'victorious' or 'glorious'. The name Carstensz Pyramid is still used among mountaineers.

Usually, 2 routes are used to climb the Carstensz Pyramid - Puncak Jaya 4884m: on foot through the exotic jungle or by helicopter, which will take you to the base camp in the Yellow Valley. However, due to the unsafe situation with crossing the jungle, we currently offer only a helicopter route.

You can acclimatise in the basecamp before ascending the Carstensz Pyramid. From the basecamp, a roundtrip to the summit takes around 10-12 hours, and totally 4 days from Timika to Timika (depending on the situation or weather.)

Dates of our tours in 2023: on request.

The cost of the tour with the Russian guide of Elbrus Tours is:

for a group of 2 people - $ 13900,

for a group of 3 people - $ 11900,

for a group of 4 people - $ 10900,

for a group of 5 or more customers - $ 9900


Day 1. Arrival in Bali

On your arrival in Bali, our guide will meet you at the airport, then you’ll be transferred to your hotel and take a rest.

Day 2. Bali - Timika.

Departure to Timika Airport. Transfer to your hotel for rest. After lunch, we will invite you to local office to check gear or we’ll do at the hotel. After that, you can enjoy your free time, you will have the whole day to replenish your energy and get your body used to the altitude. Overnight at hotel.

Day 3 Timika – Carstensz Pyramid BC

Take a flight with chartered helicopter to the Yellow Valley Base Camp (4,250m). Free time while you're acclimatising yourself in the base camp.

Day 4. Acclimatization & Rope skill.

Free time for the whole day and get an extra day for acclimatization. Walk around base camp, going up to the middle ridge for better acclimatisation. After that we’ll do some training on the rope if needed. Overnight in the basecamp.

Day 5. Summit day.

Wake up at midnight and prepare for the summit attempt. Your hot drinks and light meals are ready. Start trekking to the summit at 02.00 am. After walking about 30 minutes, we will start on the first rope where lines will be fixed in preparation for our descent. Our route here follows the ridge crest with grand exposure along the way. We pass four small notches as we rappel and use ascenders to pass these tricky sections. Our descent entails multiple rappels and scrambling. We will be on good, clean rocks that provides excellent friction even in the wet weather. It will take approximately 9-10 hours (round trip.)

Day 6. Base Camp – Timika.

Helicopter pick up from Yellow Valley Base camp to fly to Timika. Transfer to your hotel in Timika.

Day 7. Timika – Bali.

Hotel check out and take a direct flight to Bali. Overnight at hotel.

Days 8-9. Extra days.

In case of the bad weather, extra acclimatization or helicopter flight delays. (note : sometimes we need more than two days, depending on the particular situation/ weather conditions)

Day 10. Departure

Check out from the hotel and drive to the airport.

Cost of the tour includes:

· Pick up and drop off service in Bali and Timika airport

· Two nights stay at 4* hotel in Bali (one night before & one night after the climb)

· Two nights stay at hotel in Timika (one night before & one night after the climb)

· Round trip chartered helicopter from Timika to the Yellow Valley Base Camp.

· All meals during your climb

· Personal sleeping tent, dining/mess tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils

· Experienced Climbing Guide and field assistant

· Fixed rope on Carstensz Pyramid wall.

· Luggage - no more than 15 kgs per person for the Helicopter flight

· All the complicated permits for climbing Carstensz Pyramid.

· Satellite phone service (only for emergency situations)

· Radio communication support in the Base Camp

· · RTB cost (Return to Base); RTB cost (return to base) it means when the helicopter already flies to drop you or pick you up from the base camp and they need to return because the weather has changed or the helicopter can’t land, so you will pay this cost around $1.200 – $1.500 /person.

Cost of the tour excludes:

· International flight tickets to and from Bali airport (DPS).

· Roundtrip domestic flight ticket from Bali to Timika

· Indonesian visa (if necessary)

· Personal equipment for climbing and camping

· Personal insurance & cost of an emergency evacuation

· Personal extra baggage on domestic flights (luggage allowance is usually 20 kgs/person).

· Personal expenses (laundry, phone calls, mini bar in the hotel).

· Your meals in Bali and Timika.

· Costs for delays or extending of the trip due to bad weather or other circumstances

· Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early

· Costs associated with an expedition finishing early

· Tips for the guide and field assistants

Required Equipment

- 1 Seat Harness **
- 5 Carabineer, delta screw gate type **
- 2 Descender – figure of eight (8) **
- Several slings, Coxtail and Webbing.**
- 1 Pair mechanical Ascenders (left and right hand) with handles **
- 1 Climbing helmet , Adjustable, should fit with hat on **
- Adjustable trekking poles *
- 1 Pair rappel gloves *
- Big Pack with bag cover, 80 liter size or more
- One Day pack for summit attack *
- Camera equipment
- 1 Pair of boots for summit *
- 1 Pair of boots for trekking *
- Down/synthetic Parka Medium weight insulated
- Raincoat, mountain gears and reasonable cloth *
- Goggles / anti UV glasses
- Sun Block Cream
- Personal Medicine *
- Recommended: Own Sleeping Bag -15c & Mattress for your comfort
- Headlamp (e.g. Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini) Bring spare batteries
- Personal first aid kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc.
- Hard shell jacket with hood. Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
- Balaclava
- Toiletry kit, be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag

Personal gear

- Rucksack 40-50 liters
- Closed-cell foam pad
- Sleeping bag (good for -5° -15°C)
- Harness
- 5-6 meters of 6-8mm rope for Prussik knots
- Jumar (ascender)
- Rappel device
- Helmet
- Poncho against rain
- Telescopic ski poles
- Mountaineering boots
- Waterproof/breathable jacket with hood(Gore Tex is strongly recommended)
- Waterproof/breathable long pants with a bib (full length side zips allow easy handling)
- Down or fiber filled jacket with hood. Should be large enough to put on over your fleece jacket
- Fleece/pile jacket
- Fleece pants
- Light trekking pants
- Shorts
- Liner socks - 2-3 pairs
- Thick wool or poly socks - 3 pairs
- Long-sleeved shirts - 2
- Sandals
- Cap with large peak against sun
- Wool or fleece hat
- Training shoes
- Gloves
- UV glasses
- Head torch
- Thermos
- Lip balm (spf 25+) and glacier cream (spf 40)
- Personal first aid kit

- Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness / Ibuprofen 200mg muscle soreness
- Antibiotics and Personal Medications
- Medicine Tablets for headaches, anti nausea medications.

Climbing Snacks, Energy Bars, Chocolate Bars, and Candy Bars or what you like to eat (snacks and small foods)

All subjects may be changed at any time if needed without a prior notice


Flying is the most recommended way to get here. The nearest airport town to Carstensz is Timika in Papua - Indonesia. Garuda Indonesia operates only one direct flight to Timika on the daily basis from Bali (DPS) and Makassar (UPG). Our expeditions are typically start from Bali (DPS), so you can get your international flight tickets easily.


You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with us. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. We recommend you insurers who specialise in mountaineering, trekking, and expeditions.


A 35-40L rucksack for a summit day will be required. Please note you will be limited to 15kg luggage allowance for the helicopter, so you need to keep your equipment to an absolute minimum.


For your own comfort, travel light. Normally airlines restrict baggage to 20 kg (on the helicopter you will be restricted to 12 kg) but you will be wearing boots and you could wear one set of trekking clothes. Some items may be left at the hotel until your return. A suitable kit bag is provided (sent out 6 weeks prior to departure). All items should be packed in plastic bags.


With the helicopter approach to base camp you do increase altitude very quickly. Basecamp resides at 4250 m. You must be careful to ensure you drink plenty of liquid to stay hydrated. It is important in the first two days upon your arrival at the base camp to take things easy and to not over exert yourself while your body is adapting to the change in the altitude.


Meals are included whilst on the mountain. Individuals are responsible for drinks throughout as well as lunches and evening meals while in the towns. You will need to obtain local currency on arrival allowing around $100- $120 maximum.


The local currency is the Indonesian Rupiah (IDR). You can take British Pounds or US Dollars to change opposite the hotel in Bali. (Make sure dollars are in perfect condition, printed after 2007 with no creases or tears.)


Please note that the tour dates are subject to change due to the unstable political situation in the region. We will inform you immediately of any changes. 

  Copyright "Over The Rainbow" Ltd., 2024
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